Bienvenidos a America del Sur (Welcome to South America) Shortly after dawn as the clouds that have hung over Rio for several days break up, the first group of travelers arrives. We were met by Jean, as were many of the nineteen of us. He clearly loves his city and wants us to get to know it.
Touring Rio de Janeiro
As we drive into town we pass the favelas (slums) and the older, central city before emerging along the shore of Guanabara Bay in the residential parts of Rio. From our perch atop Sugar Loaf after an E ticket ride up we view the entire expanse of the bay and the city that sprawls to the Atlantic shore. Clearly this is one spectacular setting.At our hotel on Copacabana we have a different kind of spectacular view; Rio embraces the Speedo like no other place.
The next day eight of the group leave on a two-hour flight to Iquazu Falls, 20 falls stretching over a mile in length between Brazil and Argentina. No wonder Eleanor Roosevelt said "poor Niagara" after seeing this sight. The area teams with fauna — coatis, monkeys, jays, hawks, butterflies — and flora — bromeliads, orchids, philodendrons.
At last we are all in Rio and ready for the cruise. Ray V., never known to pass up a jewelry store, sports his newest rock. Then it was all aboard the MS Rotterdam for a two-day sail to Buenos Aires.
Our ship made the following ports of call, one port per day:
- Buenos Aires, Argentina
- Montevideo, Uruguay
- Falkland Islands (landing aborted due to bad weather)
- Ushuaia, Tierra Del Fuego
- Punta Arenas, Chile
- Puerto Montt, Chile
- Valparaiso, Chile
- Santiago, Chile, for the trip home
So, find your stateroom, order room service, and relax and enjoy the voyage. We set sail . . . NOW!
Buenos Aires
Two days to enjoy the warmth and the sun on the ocean and then — Buenos Aires is the Big Apple, the Paris of the South. The gay man’s pilgrimage seems to be in the footsteps of Evita — from the balcony of the Casa Rosada to the tomb in Recoleta Cemetery. Being at the tomb was almost like being on the beach at Rio without the Speedos.
The Tomb of Evita Duarte Peron
Buenos Aires offers charming streets, outdoor markets, wonderful cafes and bargain prices. Everyone tangoed in Buenos Aires. Some even were caught doing the tango on the streets of the city, but Bob M. clearly needs to be less passive in his dance steps.
Montevideo
A quick crossing of the Rio de La Plata, and we are in Montevideo. Much smaller than Buenos Aires, but a lovely stop before heading to the stormy south Atlantic.
Falkland Islands
It is two days to the Falkland Islands where high swells prevent us landing. As we cruise between the two main islands we see nary a sign of life — not a sheep, house, or tree — just those black browed albatross. This is desolate. Almost as bleak as the yielding of Hank’s efforts at Friends of Dorothy parties — two others and us. We are bound for the Horn with ourselves as the pickins and an awful lot of heteros on board.
Life Aboard Ship
There is much to do on board. There are lectures by a naturalist, port talks on our destinations, lectures on the cultural/historical impact of the discovery of South America, entertainers, bars, movies, food, wine tasting, cooking classes, and yet another Friends of Dorothy party — still just us and those other two guys. Who is this Dorothy anyway?
Rounding the Horn
It is cloudy at the Horn, but we can see the entire island clearly. The ships whistle sounds and we pass between the Atlantic and the Pacific. There is more visible life on the Horn than at the Falklands; there is a lighthouse station. It is thrilling to sail around this island that is the end of South America. Further south is only Antarctica. We are out of the rough seas and into the Beagle Channel bound for Ushuaia on Tierra de Fuego.
Ushuaia
Ushuaia is a charming town that could be a ski village anywhere in the world, except it is a ski village at the end of South America. Some take a train ride into the national park, while others take a catamaran to see Magellenic and Gentu Penguins.
The scenic beauty of this spot ringed by the Andes enraptures all. Going up the Beagle channel we will sail through a fjord passing Alpine glaciers and beech forest. This is like Alaska, but not like Alaska. Wending our way through these channels the ship enters the Pacific and then heads into the Strait of Magellan.
Punta Arenas
In Punta Arenas, Chile, we learn that the glorious day we are experiencing also occurred two years ago in this area. We are lucky. The Strait is glassy and the Andes clear and snow capped. This is the last chance to see Magellenic Penguins. This time we can literally walk among these curious birds — there is the waddle of the penguins and the waddle of the cruise passengers looking at the penguins.
We have one more glacial experience, the Amalia Glacier. This is the closest we will get to a massive glacier that is calving into the fjord. The glaciers of South America are retreating rapidly.
Puerto Montt
Puerto Montt is our port of call in Chile’s Lake District. The Germans settled this area and their influence is noticed in the quaint towns that ring Lake Llanquehue. The clouds hang low and there is no opportunity to see the two snow capped volcanoes that tower above the Lake District.
Valparaiso
The clouds actually open up as we land in Valparaiso two days later. This is a rare weather phenomenon for the central coast of Chile. Here summers are more like Southern California — warm and dry. The nineteen of us are now all together on an outing. We wipe and rewipe our bus windows as we strain for glimpses of Valparaiso and Vina del Mar. No speedos here. All huddle inside during this downpour.
Atop a 22-story building we all gather round a table for our farewell lunch. The restaurant revolves and the clouds dissipate as we raise our glasses of pisco sours (a traditional Chilean drink) in a toast to our trip, and to the views of Valparaiso and Vina del Mar that we can now at last see.
Santiago
In Santiago we will again go our separate ways — some fly home immediately, others stay on for several days and one adventurer, Dick T., heads for Easter Island. We have rounded the Horn and are heading home.— Lou M.